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An FL2 error code and FL1 error code are often confused for one another. While an FL1 error code means the spa isn’t sensing enough water flow to close the flow switch, the FL2 error code means exactly the opposite. So when you are troubleshooting an FL2 error code, we want to determine why the spa thinks the flow switch, or the pressure switch, is providing a closed circuit instead of an open circuit.

Generally speaking, an FL2 error code is caused by one of two components, and for three different reasons.

The first reason would be that the flow switch/pressure switch has failed and is delivering a closed circuit at all times. When functioning properly, this sensor should be delivering a closed circuit only when there is adequate water flow. If the sensor is functioning normally, it should measure OL or infinite when no water flow is detected. It should read zero resistance when there is good water flow.

The second reason you may receive an FL2 error is when you are actually receiving water flow and you should not be. In this case, this would likely mean a relay on the circuit board is stuck an a closed position not allowing the pump in question to shut off. This would mean the circuit board needs replaced.

The final reason you may get an FL2 code is because the circuit board may be misinterpreting the information it is receiving from the flow switch or pressure switch. While this is very rare, it would mean a circuit board replacement is necessary.

That said, this is an easy error code to troubleshoot. Does that pump turn on and off like it should? Good, then test the sensor. If the sensor doesn't test like it should, then replace it. If it does test like it should, then replace the board. Now if the pump won't turn on and off like it should, then you likely have a bad board. 



The flow errors FL1 and FLO are the most common error codes we get calls about. As people read through their owners manual, it is easy for people to quickly come to the conclusion that the first thing they need to replace is their flow switch. While that may certainly be the case, it may also not be the root cause of the issue. So, here are the steps you want to follow to determine what is causing your issue (please note- Be safe. If you arent comfortable with testing electrical current, please call a local technician):

1. First thing to do is remove your filter(s). If the error goes away, then it would be a good idea to replace those filters. While it is not a 100% guarantee this is your issue, it could be a contributing factor.

2. Next thing to do is open your cabinet and take a look at your flow switch. If water is properly flowing, then you should be able to see that that the paddle inside the flow switch is firmly pressed up against the vertical reed.If its fluttering, there may be a partial obstruction (i.e. kinked plumbing line, organic build up, partially clogged filter, etc). If it's completely open, and you have verified there are no water flow obstructions, then it is time to make sure your circulation pump is receiving power. 

3. First verify your spa is receiving the specified incoming voltage into the circuit board as well as out of the circuit board to the transformer. Also, check all fuses for continuity. Next, check the service tag on the side of your circulation pump. This will tell you approximately what voltage your circulation pump should be getting. If your pump is receiving the specified voltage but is not running, then replace the circulation pump. If is not receiving voltage but it should be, then you likely have a circuit board issue. Now, if your circ pump is running and the flow switch appears physically in the closed position, then test the flow switch.

4. To test the flow switch, set your meter to ohm's. If your flow switch appears visually closed, and you test across those two wires, your should be getting roughly 0 ohm's or no resistance. If you are showing any other results, then you most likely need to replace the flow switch. 

5. Lastly, if your circulation pump is running like it should be, and your flow switch is testing as it should be, then you have a rare instance where your circuit board is misreading the information sent to it by the flow switch and your circuit board will need replaced. 



ClearRay Bulb 6472-841This is a question we get quite often. Some people have either not been properly informed of why this is necessary or what their ClearRay Bulb even does.  Here are the little tidbits of information that will help you have a better understanding of how your ClearRay System works.

The first thing to understand is that is what your ClearRay does. It is not going to be the one stop shop that takes care of your hot tub water for you. Your ClearRay system basically slows or inhibits the growth of bacteria using a spectrum of light called UV-C.  It does not however kill bacteria and it does not stop bacteria from finding its way into your hot tub. It's for this reason that maintaining a level of sanitizer in your water is still important.  Traditional hot tub care system require you maintain a level of 5-6 ppm worth of sanitizer in your water to keep your hot tub clean.  With ClearRay, that number drops down to 1-2 ppm.  In San Diego County, our tap water generally contains .5-1.5 ppm of chlorine in the water.  This is a major reduction in sanitizer use!

The other thing to realize is your ClearRay UV-C bulb does have a lifespan.  In testing both by Jacuzzi and third party companies, the ClearRay bulb's potentcy drops off dramatically after 12 months and is virtually useless after 18.  For this reason, we recommend a yearly replacement of your ClearRay Bulb.

While ClearRay does lower the amount of sanitizer required to keep your spa clean, it also has another major benefit. The spectrum of light used in the ClearRay system also helps keep chloramines under control.  For those unfamilar, chloramines are the compound responsible for chemical odor (not chlorine itself).  This means you will not only use less sanitizer, your water will feel AND smell fresher and cleaner.